I’m a former Los Angeles beautician🇺🇸. I’m 44 and I had quite a few freckles and large spots on my cheeks and above my eyebrows (I can still see a few if I look closely), which bothered me.
I know how I got them.
Indeed, it was my way of life.
Girls often write to me to say, “I bought a serum. Will it help me with hyperpigmentation?” I realized I hadn’t discussed this topic in detail before and needed to.
So, if you have pigment spots, have tried various products and can’t get rid of the problem, or still don’t understand pigmentation, my advice will be beneficial. To combat the problem, we need to understand how it happens.
I am so glad that many excellent and inexpensive products are on the market to help with pigmentation. In the days when I struggled with the problem, there weren’t that many options.
When I worked as a model in Austria, I had problems with acne. Do you know how I treated them? I squeezed the pimples, used alcohol (salicylic spirit, vodka, cologne), and disinfected the areas. Not only that, I would lie in the sun, thinking it would help. It’s scary to remember I did that!🙈
Looking back, it was a pretty dark time in my life, and my skin looked really bad.😭
You don’t have to make those mistakes.
Most people think brown spots look bad; unfortunately, they only increase as the years go by.
Sometimes girls tell me that spots appeared after starting to use a new product. Most often, the pigment was already there, but it appeared because it was just waiting for the right moment.
👉IMPORTANT: When I was in beauty school in Los Angeles, we were shown this picture: imagine a slice of cake going into your skin.🍰 The pointed part of the wedge is deep in the skin, and the widest edge is on the skin’s surface. That tip produces a pigment that slowly rises over many years until it reaches the surface, where it spreads “beautifully.”
You can peel the surface layer like an onion, layer by layer. However, do not expect miracles IF YOU DO NOT STOP THE PIGMENT PRODUCTION AT THE VERY TIP.🍰
It is essential to understand this; only then will you be able to choose the tools you need. I want to emphasize that the brown spots on the face are just a consequence of what may have happened many years ago. Pigment spots can happen at the age of 16 and not appear on the skin’s surface until around age 30.
If you have enjoyed the sun or experienced changes in your hormonal system (for example, pregnancy), spots will appear sooner or later.
Even after pigment production has stopped, you should be careful about sun exposure. Your skin has learned to defend itself, so it can start producing pigment again at any time. Therefore, I encourage you to use sunscreen with SPF. While you are young, you think freckles or tan add charm.
As you age, brown spots will rob your face of charm, freshness, and youth, and you will look older.
I honestly apply SPF 365 days a year. The best way to prevent pigmentation in the first place is to avoid the sun, even if it is not visible in the sky.
👉What if the pigmentation is already visible?
To remove the pigment, you need to exfoliate it. Acids help to do this. I like The Ordinary lactic acid, mandelic acid, and AHA+BHA acid. Drunk Elephant also has good products.
If you have a big problem, the most effective treatment is hydroquinone. It would be worth looking into it. As far as I know, it is not sold in Europe and is available by prescription only in the US. Since this tool is not available in EU, I will tell you about others.
One of the strongest and readily available remedies is retinol. Another product that stops the “pigment factory” well is azelaic acid (available from The Ordinary). You will see the difference within six months to a year.
You can order these products online:
- Tranexamic acid from Inkey List
- Alpha Arbutin from Cult Beauty
- Skinceuticals discoloration defense
These formulas affect the “factory” work so that it no longer produces as much pigment. Surface stains are effectively destroyed by acids and vitamin C, which brightens, tightens, and beautifies the skin. I would not rely on this vitamin alone. Retinol (such as CeraVe brand) will be more effective.
I will repeat myself, but I feel obliged:
The best thing for your skin is a sunscreen with SPF. You can spend any amount of money, but if you don’t protect yourself from the sun, all your actions will be futile, and the spots will continue to multiply.
👉To summarize, you have three tasks:
- stop the work of the “factory”
- brighten the surface of the skin
- protect yourself from the sun
Do not rush to buy a product whose label promises you too much, like “brightens the skin and removes pigmentation in a few weeks.”
Read the ingredient list. Is there retinol, azelaic acid? Are there AHAs or BHAs? If it only contains vitamin C, it’s unlikely to help with blemishes.
Don’t give up. Patiently pursue the goal—the spots will not disappear quickly. However, if you are persistent, you will see the result after six months to a year. Most importantly, don’t ruin your work without the protective shield of SPF while in the sun!
If you want to REALLY understand your skin and learn the secrets to looking and feeling at least 10 years younger, one of the most important books you can read is my book The Whole Truth About Beauty, Youth, and Skin Care.